ROCK CLIMBING ATHLETE ABILITY CHECKLIST
Here are rock climbing athlete ability checklist that you can use for training evaluation, athlete selection, or club coaching standards.
1. 🟢 Fundamentals (must be mastered by all athletes)
🔹 Basic Techniques
- ☐ Precision footwork (toe placement, edging, smearing)
- ☐ Body position (frontal, side, drop knee)
- ☐ Balance & center of gravity
- ☐ Basic movements (matching, crossing, flagging)
- ☐ Movement efficiency (labor saving)
🔹 SAFETY
- ☐ Understand the use of harness & knots (figure 8 knots)
- ☐ Belaying (top rope) correctly
- ☐ Safety check before climbing
- ☐ Climber-belayer communication
🔹 Basic Physical
- ☐ Basic grip strength
- ☐ Core stability
- ☐ Flexibility (hips & legs)
- ☐ Basic endurance (light endurance)
2. 🟡 Intermediate Level (Towards Serious Athlete)
🔹 Advanced Techniques
- ☐ Deadpoint
- ☐ Dyno (springboard)
- ☐ Lock-off (one-hand hold)
- ☐ Heel hook & toe hook
- ☐ Mantle
🔹 Tactics & Strategy
- ☐ Route reading before boarding
- ☐ Determine beta (movement sequence)
- ☐ Energy management while climbing
- ☐ Finding a rest point
🔹 Lead Climbing
- ☐ Clipping technique
- ☐ Lead belay
- ☐ Overcoming fear of falling
- ☐ Safe fall (controlled fall)
🔹 Intermediate Physical
- ☐ Finger strength (beginning of fingerboard)
- ☐ Power (light campus)
- ☐ Endurance (long route)
- ☐ Body coordination
3. 🔴 Advanced Level/Competition Athletes
🔹 High Technique
- ☐ Complex movement combinations
- ☐ High-precision explosive movements
- ☐ Quick adaptation to new routes
- ☐ Efficient climbing at the limit of ability
🔹 Specialization
(Choose one or a combination)
🧗 Lead
- ☐ High endurance (pump management)
- ☐ Fast & efficient clipping
- ☐ Long route strategy
⚡ Speed
- ☐ Memorize standard lines (IFSC)
- ☐ Automatic movement (muscle memory)
- ☐ Quick start reaction
- ☐ Time consistency
🧩 Boulder
- ☐ Fast problem solving
- ☐ High power & coordination
- ☐ Fail-proof mentality (trial & error)
🔹 Mental & Psychological
- ☐ High focus while climbing
- ☐ Confidence during competition
- ☐ Emotion & stress control
- ☐ Route visualization
🔹 Athlete Physique
- ☐ Optimal strength-to-weight ratio
- ☐ Finger strength advanced
- ☐ Explosive power
- ☐ Fast recovery
4. 📊 Evaluation & Monitoring
- ☐ Regular exercise log
- ☐ Progress grade of the route (e.g. 5.10 → 5.12 / V2 → V6)
- ☐ Periodic physical tests (pull-ups, hang time, core)
- ☐ Engineering video analysis
💡 Checklist Usage Tips
- Use as athlete report card
- Score (1-5) each point
- Evaluation of each 1 month
- Focus on improving 3 major weaknesses
English 
Indonesian